Fes is Morocco's oldest imperial city and arguably its most culturally intact, centered on Fes el-Bali, a medina so dense with alleyways that it remains one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world. If Marrakech feels increasingly geared toward tourism, Fes still functions largely as it has for centuries, which makes it a highlight for travelers who want depth over polish.
Fes is really three cities: Fes el-Bali (the ancient medina), Fes el-Jdid (the smaller, newer medina with the Jewish quarter, or Mellah), and Ville Nouvelle (the modern French-built district). Nearly everything visitors come for is in Fes el-Bali, which has over 9,000 narrow streets and effectively no car access, so expect to walk and, ideally, hire a guide for your first day.
Fes is Morocco's traditional craft center, particularly for leather, ceramics (notably blue Fes pottery), and metalwork. The souks here feel less commercialized than Marrakech's, and prices, while still negotiable, tend to start closer to fair value. Our Marrakech vs Fes comparison goes into more detail on how the two cities' shopping and atmosphere differ.
Fes has its own international airport and is also well connected by train from Casablanca, Rabat, and Marrakech (via Casablanca). Many travelers include Fes as part of a longer loop; see our 10-day Morocco itinerary for a route that links Fes with the Sahara desert and Marrakech.
Staying inside Fes el-Bali in a traditional riad is highly recommended, both for atmosphere and because it puts you within walking distance of the main sights. Many riads offer rooftop terraces with views over the medina's rooftops and minarets.
Hiring an official guide for at least your first exploration of the medina is genuinely useful here, more so than in Marrakech, since the street layout is harder to navigate independently. For current information on opening hours and events, see the Visit Morocco tourism site.
We include Fes as part of several private multi-city itineraries, with a local guide arranged for the medina so you don't lose time getting lost in its 9,000 alleyways.
